Thattekad Bird Sanctuary also known as Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is located between branches of the Periyar river in Ernakulam district of Kerala. Salim Ali had done a survey at Thattekad in 1930 and described it as the richest bird habitat in the peninsula. He later recommended the Kerala Government to notify it as a sanctuary. In 1983, it was declared one.

The sanctuary covers around 25 sq kms of tropical semi-evergreen and tropical decudious low-land forests. Hence the name Thattekad(Thattekad literally translates to 'flat forest' in Malayalam). According to our guide, Sudeesh(a crackshot at spotting), excluding the settlements inside the forest, the sanctuary would have only 15 to 16 sq kms of actual forest cover. But thats the most intriguing part. Within this small area, reside over 250 species of birds! Now that's a density almost unheard of, in the south.
Our stay at Thattekad was short(1.5 days. Birds Spotted-77). The first day of birding started only by 8:30 in the morning. Sudeesh took us around through several estates that border the sanctuary. We still managed to spot quite a few species including the Ashy Woodswallows(Artamus fuscus) and the Mottled Wood Owl (Strix ocellata). Sudeesh took us to the tree where it usually roosts. The bird was so well camouflaged that it took me some to figure out where exactly the it was. Another raptor that we saw was the Crested serpent eagle(Spilornis cheela).

[A pair of Ashy Woodswallows]

[Crested Serpent Eagle]
At one of the estates, I saw a lizard steadily working its way up the trunk of a tree, all the while catching insects that it found on the bark. I paused for a second wondering if it could be the dragon that I've always longed to see. And the next second when it exposed its yellow gular pouch, I knew it was the dragon- Draco dussumieri or the Western Ghats Flying Lizard! And although I couldn't get a shot of it in flight, I did see it glide gracefully for a span of approximately 12 feet from one tree to the other. It landed on the trunk, very close to the base of the tree and started moving up in the same fashion as it had done with the previous tree.

[Western Ghats Flying Lizard. The skin membrane used for gliding is clearly visible]
Later in the evening we took a trail that was marked as the Salim Ali Nature Trail. This area was well wooded and we encountered quite a couple of species like the Emerald Dove(Chalcophaps indica), Eurasian Black Bird(Turdus merula) and the Malabar Trogon(Harpactes fasciatus) to name a few. It was also during this evening stroll that George(fellow birder) saw a Mouse deer(Moschiola meminna) run across the path just a few feet in front of him!


The next morning's birding session was the most productive with quite a lot of sightings. Around 7 O'clock, Sudeesh took us to a rocky outcrop near Kallipara that overlooks the core area of the sanctuary. This was an extremely good vantage point. All you had to do was select a suitable spot, sit and start watching. The birds were pretty good at running their show. Here we saw the Grey-headed bulbul(Pycnonotus priocephalus), Brown capped pygmy woodpecker(Dendrocopus nanus), Green Imperial pigeon(Ducula aenea) among many others. We also spotted a Malabar Giant Squirrel(Ratufa indica) resting in the canopy.


[The rock served as a good lookout point]

[A pair of Hill Mynas(Gracula religiosa) high in the canopy]
After spending a couple of hours there we proceeded to our final mission - to see the Srilankan Frogmouths(Batrachostomus moniliger). For this, Sudeesh took us to Urulanthanni. After alighting from the bus, he led us along the road and leaning on a very thin tree, turned around and said, "On this tree, there are three frogmouths". It took me a split second to decipher what he had said. My jaw dropped as I looked above. There, just three or four feet above where he stood, were a family of three Frogmouths huddled together!

[The highly camouflaged Frogmouth family]

The entire experience of the sanctuary even though for such a short while, was great. An important thing I noticed about Thattekad is the abscence of any kind of plastic waste. Nowhere on the trails that I took, did I find any sort of plastic or other garbage. The forest floor was filled only with dry leaves. The people whom i interacted with, the guide, cook, home-stay owner all seemed to be aware of and accept the the fact that the birds are the actual source of their livelihood. They knew the importance of protecting the birds and the environment that they live in. This is the kind of sense/spirit that local communities around a protected area should be helped to develop.

Photos of the river and Kallipara rocks by George Tom